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Sunday, June 21, 2009

Fez

After our two weeks at the home-stay in Marrakech, we spent this past week in two different cities. We went to a city called Fez from Monday through Wednesday; then we spent Wednesday night through Saturday in Morocco's capital, Rabat. On Saturday morning (at 2am!) we left the city with some friends and drove to Tangier, which is accross from Gibralter and Spain (but more on this another time).

Even though we only spent a few days there, Fez has probabaly been our favorite city so far. Many people call it the theological center for Islam in this part of the world, and the oldest university in the world is also located in this city. It is connected to the Kouraine mosque in the old medina. Before either Cambridge or Oxford was a twinkle in the eye of European intelligensia, the Kouraine University was a center for learning in the ancient world. Many claim (and they make a pretty good argument) that the concept of zero (the number...not my social status) was developed here. European scholars later appropriated this concept, and it has become fully integrated into Western Civilization (our bank account is proof!). This is a great example of the richness of this culture, despite the misconceptions we sometimes have in America about this part of the world.

Here are a few pictures at this university. We could only take pictures of the exterior; a few signs in Arabic and French said something (we think) about students only being allowed to enter the library, but I did get a peek and then drooled for a little while afterwards. Their library supposedly even has a copy of John from the 3rd or 4th century.

The door behind us in the picture above seemed extremely imposing and ominous yet nonetheless beautiful. We were a little intimdated, but I (Ben) walked up the stairs to see if I could enter the university. I didn't know if there would be a guard to ask for some secret password or if I would be outright turned away. But when I got to the top I found that this door actually leads to a cafeteria...and I was embarrassed. The entrance to the library/university is through a small door to our left in the picture (which you can't see). The picture below is the last point at which tourists can take photos.



In Fez we also met up with a married couple who live and serve in this city. We spent time with them and asked lots of questions (which has been the way we spend the majority of our time). Primarily, however, we intended for our time in Fez to be a vacation (a much needed one!), so we spent some time at our hotel in the pool. (You may be thinking, "It sounds like this entire trip has been a vacation," but we assure you that it has not. We've definitely been stretched, and we've learned a lot. We apologize if we're vague and don't talk about certain things on this blog.) The pool at the hotel was a little awkward, however, because there were mostly retired (i.e., old...very old) Europeans sunbathing. Ashley wanted to post photos of this but I told her it would be completely inappropriate.

Here are a few other pics from the old medina in Fez. Notice the narrowness of the streets and how most things take place out in the open (shops and shopkeepers spill over into the already close-quarters of the alleys and roads):


This picture overlooks a tannery where leather, mainly sheep and camel skin, is dried and dyed. The tanneries smell horrendous, and it's one of the dirtiest processes imaginable. We're only including 'acceptable' (i.e., non-disgusting) photos. Here are some sheep skins drying, and the second photo is of a man in one of the vats dying the leather:



Here's a few last pics that give a glimpse of this beautiful city.